How to Frame Art Prints: Sizes, Mats, and Display Ideas

Framing an art print protects the paper, makes the artwork look finished, and turns a loose sheet into something you can actually hang on a wall. The process comes down to three decisions: the frame size, the mat, and where the finished piece will go. Get those right and assembly is straightforward.

This guide explains how to measure a print correctly, how mats change the finished dimensions, what glazing options do, and how to arrange framed prints so they look intentional rather than crowded.

Before You Start: What You Need

Gather a few basic items before measuring or shopping:

• A metal ruler or tape measure
• The art print itself, laid flat and unrolled
• A pencil and paper for recording dimensions
• Clean, dry hands or cotton gloves to avoid smudging the paper

If your print arrived rolled in a tube, let it rest flat under a clean board or heavy books for a day or two. Curled paper is harder to position evenly inside a frame.

Standard Art Print Sizes

Most art prints are sold in a handful of standard sizes, which makes ready-made frames easy to find. Common print dimensions include:

• Small: 5 x 7 inches, 8 x 10 inches
• Medium: 11 x 14 inches, 12 x 16 inches, 16 x 20 inches
• Large: 18 x 24 inches, 24 x 36 inches

Frames are usually labeled by the size of the print they were designed to hold, not the outer frame dimensions. An 11 x 14 frame typically has an opening that fits an 11 x 14 print without a mat. If you add a mat, the frame must be larger than the print.

Measure Your Print Accurately

Always measure the print itself rather than trusting the label on the packaging or the listing where you bought it. Measure at the widest and tallest points, including any white border you plan to keep visible. A print listed as 12 x 16 may measure slightly differently once printed, and a fraction of an inch can be the difference between a perfect fit and a crooked one.

How Mats Change the Size You Need

A mat is the stiff, cut board that sits between the artwork and the glazing. It serves two purposes: it creates visual breathing room around the image, and it keeps the print from touching the glass.

Calculating Mat Dimensions

There are three numbers involved, and they build on each other:

1. Art size: the dimensions of the print.
2. Mat opening: the hole in the mat. This is usually cut about 1/4 inch smaller than the print on each side, so the mat overlaps the paper edge and holds it firmly. In other words, an 11 x 14 print gets a mat opening of roughly 10.5 x 13.5 inches.
3. Mat outer size: the opening plus the border on all sides. A 2-inch border on a 10.5 x 13.5 opening produces a mat outer size of 14.5 x 17.5 inches.

The frame’s opening must match the mat’s outer size. That means buying a frame two sizes up when you add a mat, or ordering a custom frame.

Choosing Mat Width

As a general rule, wider mats suit larger prints and narrower mats suit smaller ones:

• Small prints (up to 8 x 10): 1.5 to 2 inch borders
• Medium prints (11 x 14 to 16 x 20): 2 to 3 inch borders
• Large prints (18 x 24 and up): 3 to 4 inch borders

Bottom-heavy mats, where the lower border is slightly wider than the top, can help the image look balanced when it leans toward the bottom of a composition.

Mat Color and Material

A white or off-white mat is the safest choice because it lets the artwork carry the color. Dark mats can add drama but may overwhelm a light or delicate print. For anything you want to keep long term, choose an acid-free mat. Cheaper mat board can discolor and leave brown stains on the paper over time.

Glazing: Glass or Acrylic

Glazing is the clear pane that protects the front of the print. Both glass and acrylic work well; the choice usually comes down to weight and risk.

• Glass is heavy but resists scratching and hangs perfectly flat.
• Acrylic is lighter, safer if it falls, and better for very large frames, but it scratches more easily and can build up static that attracts dust.

For prints you care about, look for a glazing option described as filtering most ultraviolet light. UV protection slows fading, though it does not stop it entirely.

Step-by-Step: Framing the Print

1. Clean your workspace. Work on a large, clean surface away from pets and drafts.
2. Lay out the layers. From the front, the order is: glazing, mat, print, backing board.
3. Attach the print to the backing. Use acid-free hinging tape or archival photo corners. Avoid ordinary tape, rubber cement, or glue, which can stain or damage the paper.
4. Position the mat. Center the print inside the mat opening so the overlap is even on all sides.
5. Place the stack into the frame. The frame’s inner lip, called the rabbet, should be deep enough to hold the glazing, mat, print, and backing without bulging.
6. Secure the backing. Use the frame’s built-in tabs or points, then cover the back with a dust cover if one is included.
7. Add hanging hardware. Attach the appropriate wire or hanger for the frame’s weight, and use two wall hooks for larger pieces to keep them level.

Display Ideas

Hanging Height

In a room where people stand, the center of the artwork should sit roughly 57 to 60 inches from the floor, which is about eye level for most adults. Above furniture such as a sofa, aim for 8 to 10 inches of space between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the frame.

Gallery Walls

Arrange the frames on the floor first, then copy that layout onto the wall. Keep the gap between frames consistent, usually 2 to 3 inches. Mixing sizes works well when the layout is centered around one anchor piece or organized in a clean grid.

Lighting and Long-Term Care

• Keep prints out of direct sunlight to reduce fading.
• Avoid humid rooms such as bathrooms and unfinished basements.
• Dust frames with a dry, soft cloth rather than spray cleaners.
• Check hanging hardware once a year and tighten loose wire or hooks.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Buying a frame based on the print size when you plan to add a mat.
• Forgetting that the mat overlaps the print by about 1/4 inch per side.
• Using non-archival tape or mat board on artwork you want to preserve.
• Placing a print directly against the glazing, where condensation can cause sticking.
• Hanging a single small print high on a large, empty wall.

The Bottom Line

Framing an art print comes down to measuring accurately, sizing the mat and frame from that measurement, and choosing materials that protect the paper. Once the print is mounted safely and the frame is on the wall at eye level, the piece looks finished and stays in good condition for years.

If you want more practical guidance like this, explore other home and how-to articles for quick answers to everyday questions.